France

Whimsical architecture, futuristic gardens, white cliffs and beach

Day 1. Etretat

The history of Etreta, heiress of the sea nomads, is rooted in the ancient times of military raids, when the first settlement was called Strutat in Scandinavian, which meant &quot;farm of the setting sun.&quot; Etretat has made a centuries-old journey from a fishing village to a bohemian resort that won the hearts of writers and painters forever. Chalk gigantic rocks continue to excite the imagination of travelers to this day.

The Michelin-starred Le Donjon restaurant is pure pleasure, exquisite French cuisine and fresh produce from the surrounding farms. Just imagine sitting at a table overlooking the white cliffs of Etretat and the English Channel, enjoying baked Norman oysters (huîtres), the iconic caramel pie (tarte tatin) and a dessert with honey, pear and butter cream.

Le Donjon - Domaine Saint Clair

Lann-Bihoué restaurant will delight you with colorful Norman cuisine. It serves salade cauchoise, a traditional dish made from potatoes, ham and celery. Locals and tourists devour buckwheat pancakes, migrated from Eastern cuisine (galettes traditionnelles normandes au sarrasin) and thick pancakes: salty with seafood (crêpes aux fruits de mer à la Normande) and sweet with apple topping or caramel (crêpes aux pommes, au caramel et au beurre). Don't forget to order a bottle of craft cider or beer.

Restaurant Lann-Bihoué

At La Flottille, guests can enjoy homemade food and drinks from the local cellars. You can start with seafood, such as mussels with Norman sauce or mussels stuffed with Camembert or garlic oil. For taste, we recommend ordering apple cider, which is brewed here in Normandy. The restaurant boasts Andouiette sausage, which is made from pork or veal giblets and spices. The dish is very specific, and rather refers to gastronomic curiosities. Not every cook knows the recipe for a traditional anduette. Pay attention to the letters “AAAA” next to the name of the dish. This is the “Amicale des Amateurs d'Andouillette Authentique” certificate. This means that the chef of this restaurant will be able to cook this dish according to all the rules.

La Flottille

Dormy House Restaurant offers an amazing sea view from its terrace. Aesthetic delight is complemented by a balanced menu with perfectly cooked dishes and fragrant pear or apple brandy, calvados. Viking descendants pour barrels of strong drink in honor of the birth of a child, add to dishes, and before even used it as a medicine and drip strong Calvados into the milk for children so that the offsprings grow kind and attentive. For an appetizer, you should try a selection of local cheeses. Norman dairy farms gave the world gastronomy the famous Camembert, the square pont -l'evêque and one of the oldest Normandy cheeses livarot.

Restaurant Dormy House

Etreta

The exterior of Maison Salamandre is confusing; the building seems to have come off the pages of a fairy tale. In fact, the house on Boulevard Président René Coty is a copy of a building from the Norman town of Lisieux. The original 16th century building was demolished, and the remaining building materials were used to raise a modern replica in Étretat in 1912. The intricate decorations on the facade of the Salamander House and its mysterious name derive from another building from Lisieux, which was destroyed during the battles of 1944.

Salamander House

The quaint building was built in 1926 on the site of the former market, which in turn stood on the site of a pond and a farm. The New Market is a tourist area that sells souvenirs and postcards.

Old Market

The Catholic church of Notre Dame d'Etretat is inextricably linked to world history: the church cemetery was the final resting place of soldiers who participated in the First World War and died in the Etretat military hospital. The construction of the Romanesque-Gothic church began in the 11th century. Later, the church was rebuilt, windows were expanded, new elements were added, such as a transept, stained-glass windows and a sacristy. The sumptuous and ascetic interior of the Church of Notre-Dame d'Etretat reflects the spirit of the medieval era.

Church of Notre-Dame d'Etretat

Local History Museum, where you will learn about the fishing past of the town, about Etretat during the Second World War and the legendary ace pilots Charles Nungesser and Francois Coli, who went missing while flying across the Atlantic Ocean.

Etretat Heritage Museum

The gardens of Etretat are an unusual green complex, which became popular thanks to the “Raindrops” rubber heads, symbolizing emotions. The size of one figure is 1.2 meters, and such a miracle was created by Spanish sculptor Samuel Salcedo. The idea of the park belongs to the landscape designer from Russia Alexander Grivko, who restored the old garden in 2017. The residence on Mount d'Amont belonged to the French actress and friend of Claude Monet Madame Thibaud. The fate of the actress, Monet's work and Norman landscapes served as a source of inspiration for the futuristic garden. Today, the open-air museum exhibits sculptures and art objects of contemporary artists.

Gardens of Etretat

The alabaster coast of the English Channel stretches for 140 kilometers, exposing chalk cliffs that reach a height of 90 meters. The most impressive giants support the shores of Etreta. The walking route starts from the Falaise d`Amont and goes down through the beach to the Falaise d'Aval, which resembles an elephant and a 70-meter high The Needle cliff. Local legends say that there is a secret passage in the rock where treasures are hidden. Further there is the huge Manneport Arch, which is best admired from the shore. Tourists go down to the water and walk between the amazing rocks at low tide, but do not forget that at high tide, picturesque shoals turn into dangerous traps.

Douaniers Hiking Route

The pebbly beach of Etretat is sandwiched between chalk cliffs. Here you will find boat rentals, restrooms and changing cabins. If the harsh Norman weather is cold, there is nothing more pleasant to warm up with aromatic coffee or a shot of Calvados in the numerous beach taverns.

Beach of Etretat

Travel back to the glorious times of La Belle Epoque with a stay at Le Donjon Estate. Each of the 25 rooms of the mansion is individually decorated, so guests can only choose the room they like. This elegant 19th-century castle features four lounge areas, a library, a patio with fireplace and a heated outdoor pool. The local restaurant serves Mediterranean cuisine with products grown in the hotel's garden. Vacationers can seat in the colourful frescoed hall or on the terrace overlooking the sea and the alabaster cliffs.

The guest house is lost among the lush vegetation. There is an outdoor terrace and an internal garden with a seating area with sun loungers and tables. The hotel is in front of the gardens of Etretat, but far enough to allow you to enjoy the Norman nature.

Chante Brise

Sherwood guests will fulfill a childhood dream of sleeping in a real treehouse! The hut is equipped with a double bed, a mini bathroom and an outdoor balcony, where guests can enjoy a stunning sea view.

Sherwood Tree

Gothic, traditional timber framing&nbsp;and panoramic city views

Day 2. Rouen

For two thousand years the capital of Normandy has survived the Romans, the Normans, the British, the fire of feuds and wars. Rouen, engulfed in flaming Gothic, played the role of a bargaining chip between Yarl Rollo and King Charles the Simple. The fierce Vikings, who had tortured the city for decades, took refuge here and formed a Norman people unlike the French or the Scandinavians.

L'Odas restaurant in the heart of Rouen focuses on balanced cuisine, while Chef Olivier da Silva's dishes are free from culinary clichés. Sea bass carpaccio with citron and sturgeon caviar (Carpaccio de bar de ligne), scallops with black truffle and muslin sauce (Saint Jacques de nos côtes cotisées à la truffe Noire) and light grenache with salted caramel and crispy crumbs are cooked here.

L'Odas

In the Old Market Square, you will find Gill Côté Bistro, where simplicity and quality rule supreme. Chef Gilles Tournadre creates professional dishes that do not scare with complexity. See for yourself by ordering a breaded veal escalope with Normandy sauce and confit potatoes or the poultry terrine with pistachio and figs.

Gill Côté Bistro

La Place is owned by Chef Gilles Tournadre, who has transformed the restaurant into a stylish and friendly space with an up-to-date menu. The focus is on modern cuisine, with typical local delicacies such as sweet ice cream and delicious Norman sorbets (l'assiette de glaces et sorbets Normands).

La Place

Restaurant Les Nymphéas is housed in a 17th century building but remains true to tradition not only on the outside but also on the inside, offering classic French and regional cuisine. Try Rouen Duck (magret de Canard à la Rouennaise) and delicate Calvados Apple Soufflé (soufflé aux pommes flambées au Calvados).

Les Nymphéas

Le Réverbère is the flagship of fine classic cuisine in Rouen. The owners of the restaurant, Eric Blondeau and José Rato, offer a harmonious menu based on traditional French dishes: foie gras terrine, duck with Thai herbs, lamb marinated with garlic and olive oil and layered apple pie.

Le Réverbère

L'Epicurius Bistro is a story about energetic and relevant cooking and a small but well-chosen menu. Stay for lunch to enjoy duck with mushrooms, Italian gorgonzola cheese and bordeliez wine sauce, pineapple soup and marinated mackerel with leeks and potato espuma. We recommend choosing a table in the secret patio.

L'epicurius

Rouen

The abbey appeared in the lands of Rouen in the 6th century; its inhabitants knew firsthand how dangerous Normans could be, for they were the pagans from the north who ravaged the monastery in the 9th century. Later, the monastery was rebuilt according to the prevailing Gothic style of the time.

Saint-Ouen Abbey

The round donjon is all that remains of the 13th-century Rouen Castle, built under King Philip II of France. The castle became notorious for its prisoner Jeanne d'Arc, who spent several months in one of the towers awaiting execution. It is known for certain that another tower served as the shelter of the Maid of Orleans, which, together with the abandoned stronghold, was demolished at the end of the 16th century. Rue de Jeanne D`Arc is said to contain elements of the "true" donjon of the Virgin.

Joan of Arc Tower

Normandy's largest art museum and a must-visit for art lovers. Its 60 rooms paintings by French and foreign masters are displayed, including Fragonard, Delacroix, Degas, Modigliani, Renoir, and Monet with his famous "The Rouen Cathedral" series. The museum's collection consists of sculptures and canvases of the Baroque, Renaissance, Classicism, Romanticism and Impressionism.

Rouen Museum of Fine Arts

In the old market square, surrounded by motley half-timbered houses, souvenir shops, and cafes, the 19-year-old Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431. The Maid of Orleans is perhaps the most popular historical figure in Rouen. In 1979, the Saint Joan of Arc Church was built on the site of her death.

Old Market Square

The Palace of Justice in Rouen rather resembles a magical castle, which is striking in reliefs, openwork towers, chimeras, and long spires. The pompous Gothic-style palace was built at the turn of the 15th and 16th centuries to house the meetings of the Norman town council. The western facade of the building bears shrapnel marks from the 1994 bombings. The marks were deliberately left as a reminder to posterity of the Second World War.

Palace of Justice

An astronomical clock from the English town of Salisbury adorned the Tower of Rouen in the 14th century. The upper window of the dial shows the phases of the moon, while the window at the base shows the days of the week with allegorical pictures. If you look closely at the jewelry on top of the watch, you will notice the gilded lambs. Animals symbolize the textile tradition of the city. In the 1920s, the clock was electrified, but before the technical progress, the mechanism was monitored by a watchmaker who lived in a room in the loggia next to the clock. Climb the Beffroi Tower adjacent to the arch if you want to see the bell and the back of the clock mechanism (by the way, the largest surviving one).

Great Clock of Rouen

The site of the Cathedral was originally a fourth-century Christian Basilica and later a bishop's complex, destroyed by the Normans in 841. The history of the Cathedral that we know began with the Viking Rollo, who converted to Christianity and became Rollan, the first Duke of Normandy. Construction of the Romanesque church began in 1145, but only the crypt remains of the original shrine. The temple was constantly rebuilt and new elements were added, so in the appearance of the cathedral can be traced early Gothic, for example, the tower of Saint-Romain, which suffered during the Allied bombing; high Gothic, the transept of the temple, and "flaming" Gothic, the Butter Tower. The cathedral of Rouen is protected by UNESCO and is on the list of the oldest and highest churches in Europe. The Duke of Rolland and King of England, Richard the Lionheart are buried here.

Cathedral of Rouen

France is a treasure trove of Gothic architecture, and the Saint-Maclou Church is one of the most striking examples of “flaming Gothic”, an impressive trend with a complicated masverk ornament. The temple, built at the turn of the 15th and 16th centuries, when dark Gothic gave way to the Renaissance, absorbed the features of both styles. The decoration of the sanctuary is made in Gothic tradition, with an abundance of statues and frightening biblical themes, for example, the scene on the tympanum of the main entrance, which depicts the crowd and Jesus deciding who goes to Hell and who goes to Heaven. From the Renaissance, the church inherited the entrance doors and the organ. The courtyard on Rue Martainville once served as a cemetery, where citizens died during the plague and priests of the Church of Saint-Maclou were buried. Aître Saint-Maclou has survived to this day as one of the last gallery cemeteries in France.

Saint-Maclou Catholic Church

The birth of the garden is linked to the name of Louis de Carel, president of the Court of Aid, who in 1691 decided to purchase a plot of land near the forest. The 16th century garden had not survived but there was a baroque pavilion covered with vines. The next owner of the land was Francois Thillard, who organized social events and performances in the garden. Highlights included a balloon flight in 1806 by Sophie Blanchard and a parachute jump by Élysée Garnerin! The garden soon passed into the hands of the municipality and the area was gradually overrun by flowers and exotic plants. Today the botanical garden of Rouen is a kingdom of dahlias, irises, bromeliads, orchids, water lilies, roses and lilies. On an area of 8 hectares there are giant North American sequoias, sugarcane, medicinal plants, banana and coffee trees.

Botanical Gardens of Rouen

After exploring the city's highlights, walk to St. Catherine's Hill, where you'll find a panoramic viewpoint on top of Rouen.

St. Catherine's Hill

The five-star boutique hotel on the quiet square de la Pucelle combines centuries of history with the comfort that modern travellers are accustomed to. Within the walls of the 15th-century palace, there is a spa with a hammam, an indoor pool, a sauna and a fitness room, a restaurant and a bar on an elegant terrace, as well as rooms with a modern and classic design for those who wants to travel to ancient Rouen.

Hôtel De La Cathédrale

The five-star boutique hotel on the quiet square de la Pucelle combines centuries of history with the comfort that modern travellers are accustomed to. Within the walls of the 15th-century palace, there is a spa with a hammam, indoor pool, sauna and fitness room, a restaurant and bar on an elegant terrace, as well as rooms with a modern and classic design for those who wants to travel to ancient Rouen.

Hôtel de Bourgtheroulde, Autograph Collection

Castle of Falaise and ancient churches

Day 3. Falaise

Falaise still remembers the memory of knights in armor, thundering battles and great conquests. The descendant of the Viking Rollo and founder of the Norman dynasty on the English throne was born here. More than 900 years later, the city became the epicenter of the military operation &quot;Bag of Falaise&quot;, which allowed the Allies to dislodge German units and pave the way for the capture of Paris in 1944. Falaise was reborn from the ruins of World War II without losing the charm of a medieval town.

A stone's throw from the Castle of Falaise, in the bakery Patisserie Serais, try the fragrant apple pie (tarte aux pommes), which has already become a legend in the Norman lands.

Boulangerie Patisserie Serais

Le Gars de Falaise restaurant is located on Belle Croix Square, which will delight lovers of calvados and cider. As an aperitif, it is customary to serve a puff pastry appetizer with Camembert and smoked andouille pork sausage (croustillants de camembert et andouille).

Le Gars de Falaise

Walking along Falaise, visit the small but cozy restaurant Le Rozell, where, in addition to the already beloved Norman pancakes, delicious buckwheat galettes are cooked.

Le Rozell

Seafood fans will not miss out on the Saint-Jacques scallops at ôsaveurs. Scallops from the Normandy coast are smoked with cider, parsnip and vanilla.

Restaurant ôsaveurs

Restaurant Le Vauquelin is a favorite among locals and tourists for its easy-to-understand and delicious cuisine with regional specialties. Opt for l'entrée in the form of tartlets with Andouille sausage and Camembert (tartelette à l'andouille et Camembert). As a main course, they serve poultry flambéed with Calvados and fried potatoes (Suprême de volaille française, flambé au Calvados, crème, frites fraîches maison). Among the sweet treats, we recommend an apple dessert with crumbly crumbs and cinnamon (crumbles aux pommes). The recipe was invented during the Second World War in England, but the sweet and uncomplicated delicacy is favorite on both sides of the English Channel.

Le Vauquelin

Restaurant La Fine Fourchette specializes in French cuisine, but does not miss the opportunity to add something traditional Normandy to the menu. Snack on apple calvados sorbet (sorbet pommes au four calvados) between meals to prime your taste buds for new flavors and combinations.

La Fine Fourchette

Falaise

The castle is a landmark of the city, where in 1027, according to other sources in 1028, Robert I's successor Wilhelm was born. The son of a duke and commoner, who received the insulting nickname “Bastard”, went down in history as a tyrannical leader and a determined general. William entered the war for the English throne against Earl Harold Godwin, defeating his rival at the Battle of Hastings in 1066 and capturing the British Isles. The Norman received the English crown, becoming King William I the Conqueror. With sword and fire, he united the scattered British possessions, conducted the first land census and a series of reforms that were considered progressive for England at that time. William's descendants ruled until 1154, when they were replaced by the Plantagenet dynasty.

Castle of Falaise

The monument to William the Conqueror could be nowhere but in Falaise. There is a gonfalon in his hand, a flag given by Pope Alexander II. The bronze statue on a granite base is surrounded by the figures of six Norman dukes: Rollon (the same Rolfe "The Pedestrian"), William I, nicknamed "The Long Sword", Richard I the Fearless, Richard II the Good, Richard III and Robert I "The Devil", preferring, however, the epithet "Magnificent". The monument's prototype is thought to be an image from the Bayeux Tapestry, an ancient 70-foot-long canvas that describes the Normandy Epic.

Statue of William the Conqueror

Next to the William I Monument there is the epic Church of the Holy Trinity. The church was built on the ruins of an old church from 840 in the 13th century. The image of the Romanesque sanctuary has strong Gothic features, as some elements, such as the nave and the choir were completed several centuries later. During the Second World War, the Church of the Holy Trinity served as a hospital. The church was damaged during the American bombings, but miraculously survived. The exterior is guarded by gargoyles while the interior is full of stained and carved windows, high vaults and arches.

Trinity Church

Among the modern buildings, it is easy to notice a part of the fortress wall and the gate that remained from the medieval city.

Fortress Gate

Another monumental church in little Falaise. Construction began under William I the Conqueror and was completed under his son, Henry I Beauclerc. The church was damaged in the siege of 1204, during the annexation of Normandy to France, and as a result, its Romanesque exterior was replaced by the typical Gothic style of the period.

Church of Saint-Gervais-Saint-Protais

The church of the 11th century stands on the site of the temple of the Merovingian era (7th century). The Romanesque church was completed several times, either for restoration purposes or for the sake of architectural fashion. In the first half of the 16th century, the church acquired its main decoration, an organ with a six-foot pipe. Today, the instrument has been completely restored, and parishioners enjoy classical organ music by French composers.

Notre-Dame de Guibray Church

Stay in a cozy guesthouse in the heart of the old town. Within the walls of a former 16-18 century farmhouse, guests can enjoy the country life: garden gatherings, homemade meals carefully cooked by the hostess, and long walks in the fields. The hotel offers the "Guillaume" triple room and the "Mathilde" room for two.

La Maison des Buis

Castel Saint-Léonard will introduce guests to the life of the Norman aristocrats of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The residence was built in 1797 by order of the Marquis Richard Louis Nicolas de Valois Saint-Léonard, whose descendants owned the mansion until 2009. There are three Louis XVI-style suites, a dining room, a private parking, a lounge area, a tea room and a woodland area.

Castel Saint-Léonard

The hotel occupies the premises of a former stud farm, which operated from 1900 to 1999. Today, the stables and factory pavilions have been completely renovated and are ready to receive guests. The double rooms and family suites are equipped with digital appliances and WI-FI, and soundproofing ensures a relaxing stay. On site you will find a fitness room and an indoor pool.

Les Prémontrés

The Norman character is as strong as Calvados, and the Normans consider themselves descendants of the Vikings, who conquered the north of the Franks step by step. Follow the path of pirates and grand dukes, moving from the outlandish Alabaster Coast into the interior of the region.

Footsteps of the Fearless Vikings